About Kalkan

HISTORICAL NOTE

Kalkan

 

Piri Reis, an admiral of the Ottoman Fleet in the 16th century is the author of Kitab-ı Bahriyye which is history’s first-known sea pilot’s book. Every Mediterranean port is accurately described and the charts are almost perfect, reflecting the author’s considerable knowledge of the Mediterranean, which partly belonged to his empire (the area stretching from Morocco to Venice).

In 1550, or thereabouts, Piri Reis produced charts of North and South America and here again he has achieved amazing accuracy. How he did it is one of history’s unsolved mysteries.

In Kitab-ı Bahriyye, there is a chapter about Kalkan Bay, wherein the author has described with pinpoint precision Kalkan’s fresh water supply, the supply which is mainstay of the village today. From him we also learn that the bay was also called ALIKI-KARA or ALKI-KAARA and that the western tip of the bay was named KALAMOÇ. Kalkan the Turkish name and Kalamaki, the Greek name may have been derived from these origins. At the time of writing, Piri Reis does not mention a settlement in the bay. (16th century)

CLIMATE

Often compared with Southern California, Lycia has a typical Mediterranean climate with hot dry summers and warm wet winters. The sea water temperature rarely drops below 16°C thus enabling swimmers to have an eight to nine month bathing season.

On a beautiful day in the middle of the winter it is a pleasure to walk on the hillsides overlooking the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean, basking in the sun and enjoying the perfume of thyme, laurel, and sage arising from the "maquis". On such a day it is not rare for the temperature to reach 20°-22°C. (70°F)

The hottest days of the hottest months are cooled down by the "Meltem" which is a breeze which blows every afternoon. Nevertheless, people who have problems coping with the heat are recommended to visit the region during the spring , early summer, or in the autumn.

This temperature climate is the reason for a non-stop agricultural season which keeps the farmers busy the whole year round with an average of 300 days of sun per year.

HOW TO GET TO KALKAN

By Road:

Lycia is connected to the rest of the Turkey by the coastal road which follows along the Mediterranean between Fethiye and Antalya. Another important road connecting Central Anatolia with Lycia, joins the coastal road 26 kilometers beyond Fethiye at Kemer Junction. From Elmalı, there are two good roads which link with Kaş and Finike. In spite of the rugged nature of the countryside, the road system is constantly being improved.

By Air:

The international airports of Dalaman and Antalya are within easy reach of any place in the Teke Peninsula. Turkish Airlines has several flights from Istanbul and Ankara which serve these airports on a daily basis. Foreign airlines are also increasing their use of Dalaman and Antalya in their direct flight programs.

By Sea:

The regular ferryboat service from Italian ports (verify with your travel agent the exact details and schedules) permits travelers to sail to Kuşadası or İzmir an then to continue by road to Lycia enjoying en route some spectacular scenery. In 1991, Antalya was included in the ferryboat program from Italy. During summer months, Turkish Maritime Lines have regular boat services along the Mediterranean coast.

By Bus:

Turkey can boast having one of the best coach/bus systems in the world and in this way every major township in Lycia is connected with the rest of the Turkey.

By Car:

One of the best ways to reach to visit Lycia is to rent a car, a mini-bus, or even better a four-wheel drive. At Dalaman and Antalya airports almost every international vehicle renting company has a stand alongside their Turkish counterpart and an excellent service is provided. Caravan rentals are beginning and becoming increasingly popular.

Note: Tourists are reminded to carry their driving licenses when on holiday.

A LOOK AT OLD KALKAN

KalkanKalkan has undergone many changes and today enjoys rich history and cultural heritage which is clearly reflected in the traditional buildings to be seen in the heart of the community. Climatic conditions, local geography and the availability of nuilding materils melded with the needs of yesterdays' inhabitants have directly affected the distinctive Kalkan Style.

Attracted to Kalkan bay the settlers built their village at the foot of the surrounding mountains. Lining the narrow streets winding up from the harbour are typical stone houses with their characteristically small suttered windows and timber balconies. Whitewashed walls, contrasting natural woodwork, charming courtyards and gardens, cand criss-crossing stoney passages create the Kalkan Silhouette.

It can be seen that climate played and important role ,n the formation of Kalkan in that the streets and the passages are open to the sea and the houses sitedin such a way as to benefit from the summer breezes. Balconies, planted terraces and courtyards were formed to create cooler and comfortable areas for use in the hot symmer months while the small windows, tightly shuttered in the noonday sun, ensured a modicum of comfort in the darkened interiors. Kalkan

 

 

 

The old Kalkan buildings are usually two stores high but in some cases, where the road is particularly steep, there may be a mezzanine. It will be noticed that the windows and the balconies of the upper floors are oriented towards the sea to take advantage of any breeze. Hidden behind the pediment, the hallmark of the traditional Kalkan house, is the red tiled roof and chimneypot which can , perhaps, be better seen from a neighbouring terrace.

The ground floors of the houses are generally used as shops or storage space and upper floors surround and accomodate the residents' living area. The rooms on the upper floor surround a hallway and the main living room always has a seaview.

Kalkan architecture possesses a very decorative element manifested in the sells placed between the floor levels and on the top of windows; plasters and pseude coloumn capitals enhance the corners of the buildings; dentiles and cornices embellish the eves while adorned pediments complete the facades.

An association with the decorative traditions used in ancient times is evident and şn the present provides an outgoing continuity with the past

OLD HISTORY OF KALKAN

KalkanThere is no specific data on when Kalkan was founded, but one of the legends which is most widely accepted is that a woman from the Island of Meis came with a boatload of goods which she tried to sell to the villagers around the Kalkan area. Her venture was successful and other tradesmen from Meis followed her example and actually moved to Kalkan about 150 to 200 years ago, thus making Kalkan a small trading coastal post. The original settlers were of both Greek and Turkish origin and were subjects of the Ottoman Empire. It is interesting to note that the architectural style of the Kalkan resembles that of the houses in Meis (Castellorizo), which incidentally until the early part of the twentieth century was considered to be the sponge capital of the world.

Very quickly, within a period of 25 years, Kalkan grew to its present size and became a successful community. The rapid growth of Kalkan can in all likelihood be attributed to the fact that Kalkan has the only hospitable harbor between Kaş and Fethiye.

Once again, there is a legend attached to the question. During the mid-nineteenth century the area was plagued with bandits who frequently raided the small coastal settlements at night. At this particular time, there was an unfortunate farmer who lived on the outskirts of the village and it was his farm that was one of the marauder’s favorite targets. Using farm implements at hand the farmer improvised and defended his property with his home-made shield and weapons and became known locally as "The man with the shield" - "Kalkanlı".

Because of the mixed population, (Ottoman subjects of Greek and Turkish origin) people started to call the village "Kalamaki" and it is thought that this name was derived from the Greek word "kalamari (squid)" which were plentiful in the surrounding sea. Also within its history Kalkan has been known as which is Turkish for port/quay/jetty.

Kalkan

The building that many consider to be the symbol of Kalkan, the Mosque standing above the harbor was formerly a Greek Orthodox Church. This lovely building was built in the later part of the nineteenth century and the ornamented church bell, dated 1897, may be seen in the foyer of the townhall.

Earlier I mentioned that Kalkan had been called İskele indicating a place where boats are loaded. During the late nineteenth century Kalkan reached its peak and actually became the most important trading port serving the Teke Peninsula. Kalkan was more important even than Fethiye or Antalya and produce was brought in from the highlands (as far away as Elmalı) and the Patara Plain. In those days it must have been quite a sight to see the cameleers driving their camels into Kalkan/İskele loaded high with goods which would be unloaded by burly porters at the quayside into small boats which would, in turn, off-load onto the ships anchored in the bay. These ships, laden with cargo, sailed to the Eastern Mediterranean, Syria, Lebanon, Egypt, Cyprus, Rhodes and other destinations which were all part of the Ottoman Empire.

Not too long ago, I met an old fellow who had lived in Kalkan in 1915 and he told me that at that time there were seventeen restaurants in Kalkan where you could eat and drink, a goldsmith, shoemaker and several tailors. In fact, at the beginning of the twentieth century, Kalkan had its own custom’s house and in 1928, the first local elections were held. In 1937, the present elementary school was opened and it was one of the few elementary boarding schools in existence in Turkey at the time.

Also, it is often a surprise for people to learn that there was a thriving charcoal making industry throughout the area and especially in Kalkan. Another rather amazing product of the area was silk and as you walk around Kalkan today, you will spot several mulberry trees. In addition, to the exportation of charcoal and silk cocoons, you had bales of cotton, olive oil (again manufactured in Kalkan as it is today), grain, sesame seed, flour from the local mills, grapes, wine from the Kalkan winery, acorns used in dye fabrication as well as lumber from the cedar and pine forests.

KalkanChange initially started to take place during and after, especially after, World War I, when in 1921 the exchange of population took place between the young Turkish Republic and Greece. During that time a lot of Greek subjects left Kalkan but nevertheless active trading continued before fading away in 1950s. One of the major factors contributing to the decline of Kalkan was the vast improvement of the Turkish road system and in particular, the completion of the coastal road in 1960, which meant that goods could be moved from place to place by overland transport rather than sea. I always think of the late 1950s as signaling the end of the first phase of Kalkan’s economic growth.

During the 1960s, the local population of Kalkan slowly started to leave the village and because the people were essentially traders, they went to places like İzmir, Antalya and Fethiye, where they were able to establish themselves and conduct their business. At that time Kalkan became something of a ghost town, but it was also round about then that tourism began with the arrival of wealthy English yachtsmen. As early as 1956, Freya Stark was mentioning Kalkan in her book The Lycian Shore

Perhaps, within the context of tourism, it should be mentioned that since the early times the wealthy residents of Kalkan have departed to their summer homes in the mountain village of Bezirgan and transhumance still continues today.

Akın Oension was the first pension to appear and was quickly followed by other early entrepreneurs like the famous former Turkish rock star Erkut Taçkın (Pasha’s Inn and Lipsos) and Tiraje hanım (Balıkçı Han and the Han).

Tourism in general was greatly enhanced in 1984 when the road connecting Kalkan with Fethiye was asphalted.

DAY AND NIGHT IN KALKAN

KalkanKalkan is a prime location from which a great variety of tours can be organized. Kalkan itself is a very rewarding holiday spot.

 

Start your day with a lazy breakfast on the terrace of your hotel/pension or in once of the restaurants along the marina, watching the heavy traffic of boats moving in and out of the harbor. For your "day on the beach" Kalkan offers you a choice: A large public beach stretches along the front but you will probably discover your own favorite spot somewhere along the coast. The water will always be sparkling clean.

 

Kalkan

You may also choose a very original Kalkan "day-spender" formula: the beach clubs. These are platform beaches accross the harbor, reached by frequent shuttle boat service from the marina. "The platforms" provide everything a holiday-maker can need or dream of, from a sophisticated tequila cocktail to beach mats. This formula is extremely popular among our visitors who will spend their holiday in one of these beach clubs. Every one has a favorite but all offer very good services. They are open all day long and even for dinne by candle light!

Kalkan

 

 

 

 

 

If your idea of a holiday is discovering a virgin sandy coast you may spend your day at Patara. Beachi one of the most beautiful beaches in Turkey. Frequent and efficient minibus service from the town square is very cheap. You will find basic restaurants for food and beverages as well as umbrellas, etc. Although much smaller the remarkable sandy beach of Kaputaş, a few miles from Kalkan, is a wonder, do not miss it. Finally, you have yet another way to spend your day in liquid!

 
   
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